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By Anne the 09/11/2023

Domaine Fiumicicoli

Three generations with the same passion

The pretty, winding road, lined with arable land, winds its way towards the mythical of Bavella. At the turn of a bend, a dozen kilometers from Sartène, the tall, angular cellar in pink and ochre cut stone the history of the estate. The cultivated fields undulate up to 250 metres of altitude. The rows of vines are perfectly arranged. In the foothills of the granite slopes, a small river whose name the estate bears Fiumicicoli, meaning little river, flows peacefully. The serene atmosphere permeates the place. We are welcomed by the three generations of the very friendly Andreani family.

THE FOUNDATIONS  

The Fiumicicoli estate was created in 1964 thanks to the determination and passion of Félix Andreani, a mathematics teacher who had turned to agriculture. Félix chose a secluded spot where an old granite building stood in need of renovation. He bought the land along with a few vines, now a hundred years old, and set about creating his own vineyard, armed with courage and persistence. He cleaned, plowed, drained and loosened the soil with very little means. The work was hard. He surrounded himself with the support of his old friends from university and from his sports club. An athlete, Félix practiced sports at a high level. At that time, the vineyards were made up of traditional grape varieties, and the winemaker was already cultivating the vines in the spirit of organic agriculture. He decided to plant Corsican grape varieties to promote them and impose an island identity. Félix was one of the first winegrowers, alongside Antoine Arena and Dominique Gentile in Patrimonio, to fight for the recognition as an appellation of Corsican wines. A long and hard fight...the AOC Corse Sartène dates back to 1976.   

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THE SPIRIT OF THE ESTATE   

From a dozen hectares at the outset, the vineyard now covers 75 hectares spread over two areas: 45 hectares on the first estate and 30 hectares on the second, located some 30 km from the winery, in the Ortolo valley. The terroirs and grape varieties play on the complexity of their soil properties, climatic influences and grape variety natures. The styles and characters of the wines can be shaped as desired. Terroir changes according to the micro-climate. Temperature differences, between day and night, are interesting for the growth of grapes and then wines. The soils of the Ortolo estate are well suited to red grape varieties: Sciaccarellu, Nielluciu, Carcaghjolu, Minustellu and Syrah, and to white grape varieties: Vermentinu and Biancu Gentile. The winery's Sartenese plateau is ideal for white grape varieties and Sciaccarellu for rosé wines. The granitic soil is punctuated by sandy-siliceous strata and discreet clay layers. "Our grafts are taken from the Vermentinu vineyard and kept in a cool place. They are then grafted onto the plantier. We have been slow to renew the grape varieties and replant. Demand for white wines is strong today, and we have to satisfy it," says Simon, Félix's son. "We grow our vineyard organically, and my father refrains from using any chemical fertilizers or pesticides. Our land has been pure and 100% organic since the creation of the estate, which has been eco-labeled for fifteen years," he explains.  

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HARVESTING  

"Harvesting is mechanical and takes place very early in the morning to preserve the freshness of the berries and protect them from oxidation. The distance between the Ortolo property and the winery is complicated to manage. Two trucks take turns. While one fills up, the other unloads the grapes at the winery, where they are immediately processed. The shuttle is incessant until mid-morning, when the heat arrives", explains oenologist Lesia, Simon's daughter. The earliest grape variety is Biancu-Gentile, of which the estate has a 1.2-hectare parcel. It is used in blending and is destined for the Vassilia cuvée, to which it adds a little fat to the Vermentinu. 

  

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LESIA, THE UP-AND-COMING OENOLOGIST  

  In 2019, Lesia obtained a BTS in Viticulture-Oenology in Bordeaux before continuing her studies for three years in Switzerland, at the Changins School. There she obtained her diploma in oenological engineering. During her training, she took part in work placements at wine estates in the Bordeaux and Valais regions. There, she experimented with various techniques in the cellar, in the vineyard and in the laboratory, learning about different winemaking and ageing processes. Back on the family estate, assisted by her father Simon and equipped with her experience, she set about modifying some of the winemaking processes. She began testing different extraction techniques. For example, she carries out cold pre-fermentation maceration and biocontrols the red wines without sulphite until the end of fermentation. Olivier Nasles, consultant oenologist and President of the Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence PDO wine syndicate, helps with the blending and reassures her of his skills. The terroir gives the wine its essence, the oenological techniques define its quality, and Lesia's art combines the two.   

  

THE CELLAR, A PLACE OF TRANSFORMATION  

Félix is proud to present his life's work. The 150-year-old cellar has always been dedicated to wine. The renovation of the beige granite block walls and the red-tiled roof give the building the look of an elegant, functional farmhouse. The adjoining extensions are built in a natural style with wooden facades. The huge oak door opens onto the fifteen-year-old cellar. Lateral rows of tall stainless steel vats mark out the entrance all the way to the back of the room. The cellar, which varies from grey to black depending on the exposure, is around fifteen metres high. To the right, the vats are flush with the ceiling. Ingeniously divided into two or three levels of welded stainless steel plates, they separate the different vintages. This system makes the most of the space available, allowing the winemaking and ageing processes to be customised. At the far end, an access staircase leads to the upper levels. On the right, eight washing machines store the bundles of Vermentinu grafts taken from the estate and destined for the plantier. To the left, a narrow flight of stairs leads steeply down into the unexpectedly large barrel cellar. Opposite, a huge racking system holds several rows of oak barrels for ageing. Cut into the concrete mass, a powerful freight lift serves its purpose. Félix has kept the original cellar. In order to innovate with a different type of wine, a few years ago Simon invited his father to experiment with barrel ageing. In 1997, the first red wine, Vassilia, named after Simon's eldest daughter, was produced. The experiment was hailed by the critics and the reputation grew. Today, the three colours of the cuvée reflect the value and identity of the estate. One third of the Bordeaux barrels are renewed every year. The white wines are matured for nine months in new oak barrels of medium toast, to bring out their buttery, toasty notes. The red wines are aged for twelve months in wood to give them a tannic roundness. New single-vineyard creations also complete the range.  

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VASSILIA, THE COMMERCIAL SIDE  

Vassilia, the eldest of the family, joined the family domaine after obtaining a master's degree in wine sales and marketing. "My sister and I get on very well at work, we work in two parallel spheres," laughs Vassilia. "Our production of rosés is adapting to demand, while our growing production of whites is forcing us to replant," she continues. "Two-thirds of our production is sold to wine merchants and restaurants on the island. The rest is sold outside, with a small proportion going abroad. To take and deliver orders, I regularly travel the roads between Porto-Vecchio, Bonifacio, Valinco and Alta Rocca. All our wines are on sale in the estate shop. We also offer tastings for visitors," she explains.   

 

TASTE IT!  

 Fiumicicoli Blanc AOP 2022: Pale white gold eye with green highlights, lovely bright viscosity. On the nose: floral notes, seringua, honey, nougat. Very garden-like with plenty of freshness. Lovely minerality, salivating on the nose, a hint of vegetal, citrus fruit. On the palate: salivating attack and tension, "albedo" mid-palate, bitter, liveliness, some oxalis stem and almond milk. A 100% Vermentinu, energising and delicious.  

Fiumicicoli "Giovichi" Red 2020: bigarreau cherry colour, brilliant purple highlights. On the nose: very elegant, with spicy notes of black berries, blackcurrants, cherries and myrtle. On the palate: a silky, fresh first impression, with a tannic, greedy, slightly acidic structure, lengthened by a deep, full-bodied red fruitiness. The ardour of the black pepper is combined with liquorice notes, and the mouth-watering body has a magnificent balance that sublimates the airy, salivating finish. A splendid combination of Minustellu and Carcaghjolu Neru.   

Fiumicicoli "Vassilia" Rosé 2022: Rose petal eye with brilliant highlights. On the nose: very fruity, raspberry, redcurrant, hints of grapefruit, lovely bitters, firmness, minerality. On the palate: Harlequin candy, floral notes: wisteria, jasmine. Nice balance, a tasty floral rosé. A hint of loukoum, lychee, very salivating, a fine balance between substance, liveliness and alcohol. A wine of spellbinding elegance.  

 

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Domaine Fiumicicoli 

Route de Lévie, 20100 Sartène 

Tel. : 04 95 77 10 20 - www.domaine-fiumicicoli.com 

 

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