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The best of spring in the Balagne: From Pietralba to Algajola
Calvi ©ATC
Mild temperatures, bright sunshine, awakening nature, trees in full bloom, and the scents of spring transport us to the beautiful region of the Balagne
From Pietralba to Algajola, here’s a sneak peek of a region where you’ll marvel at the beauty and variety of the landscapes surrounding you. There’s a wealth of outdoor activities on offer for adults and children alike, plus the historic city of Pascal Paoli (who was nicknamed ‘Babbu di a Patria’, father of the Corsican fatherland), local savoir-faire and gastronomy, fascinating religious heritage and breathtaking natural sites. Especially for you, we’ve selected the best of the Balagne in the spring, to help you prepare a holiday on which you’ll have no time to be bored.
DISCOVERING ILE-ROUSSE: FROM PLACE PAOLI TO THE PIETRA LIGHTHOUSE
Ile-Rousse (Isula Rossa) is a pretty little town in Corsica, inhabited since antiquity. In 1758, Pascal Paoli – who often came to the Balagne – decided to build a port to defend against the Genoese who controlled the neighbouring ports of Calvi and Algajola. This is how Ile-Rousse was born. Rather interesting! If you want to know more, take advantage of the pre-season and these beautiful sunny days to discover the town and its history alongside a guide-speaker.
Information and bookings available from Ile-Rousse tourist office. You can also take the little train from Place Paoli - a great option for children! (infos and on-site bookings)
Not to be missed during your visit:
-Place Paoli, the heart of town. Take time to sit on a terrace beneath the towering plane trees, for a coffee and to enjoy the beautiful spring weather. Don’t miss the bust of Pascal Paoli which stands in the centre of the square, brought to life by children running around and locals playing boules.
-The Church of the Immaculate Conception, which stands at the bottom of the square, and the Church of Mercy further up.
-The covered market with its 21 columns, classified as a historical monument and a real symbol of Ile-Rousse. Every morning, local producers set up there to sell their wares, with seasonal produce in the spotlight.
-The old town: enjoy the calm of spring to stroll around and go shopping in the old town. You can also enjoy a lazy lunch in one of the restaurants and indulge your tastebuds with a few Corsican specialities.
-The Pietra lighthouse and its Genoese tower: a nice walk to do with family or friends. Walk along the beach towards the port and on to the Pietra peninsula. Climb the tower for a superb view of the town and surrounding landscape. The more adventurous can hire a segway to get to the lighthouse.
-Roastery ‘Le Bon Café’, an institution in the Balagne since 1932. Here you can learn the art of coffee with the Franceschini family.
EXPLORING THE BACKCOUNTRY
It’s time to leave the coast behind and get up high inland, discovering the small, charming villages that make up the hinterland of the Balagne.
Several routes are possible for this. If you take the Route des Artisans, why not not hire a scooter in this pre-season, to criss-cross the small uncrowded roads that lead from village to village?
Discover the savoir-faire of these men and women who keep Corsican tradition alive through their works; artisans will always give visitors a warm welcome. Take the time to listen to them, watch them at work and buy gifts for friends: Raku ceramics, essential oils, mosaics, bubbled blown glass, earthenware or stoneware pottery, cow hide or lambskin, and gold or silver jewellery.
Before leaving Ile-Rousse, pick up a brochure from the tourist office.
From Monticello to Sant’Antonino: 15 hiking circuits for almost 120km
If you’re energetic and fancy venturing out in the countryside on the small paths that criss-cross the maquis, head to Ile-Rousse tourist office to pick up the 15-page brochure on walks, which details the old mule tracks linking one village to another around Ile-Rousse (price €15). The trails encompass Monticello, Santa Reparata, Occiglioni, Corbara, Pigna and Sant’Antonino.
On the Corbara side, make a stop at the Musée du Monsieur Guy Savelli, a passionate collector who will open the doors of his ‘Ali Baba’ cave. Another museum worth visiting nearby is the Musée du Trésor, housed within the Nunziata church.
In Pigna, meet the many artisans of the village: makers of pottery, stringed instruments, music boxes and jewellery. You’ll be captivated by this small flowery village, distinguishable by its pretty little houses with blue shutters and its superb auditorium, where you can come back in the evening to listen to a concert of traditional polyphonic singing.
Palasca to Feliceto
Palasca, Belgodère, Occhiatana, Costa, Ville-di-Paraso, Speloncato, Nessa, Muro and Feliceto are nine other villages to visit. Baroque churches, brotherhoods, chapels, a rich religious heritage to discover… and of course, craftsmen to meet. During this tour you’ll take in the Regino Valley, a classified ‘Natura 2000’ site.
And in the Balagne, we always think of athletes: mountain bike tours are available. The Regino circuit is a great option with family, while the Tuani circuit is more for pro cyclists. Look up the itineraries here.
Pietralba to Novella
Here are four more villages: Pietralba, Lama, Urtaca and Novella. They are located at the gateway to the Balagne, a few kilometres from Ile-Rousse.
If you go to Urtaca, the Sentier de la Mémoire (‘Memory Trail’) will take you to Lama. It’s a great opportunity to discover the agricultural life of yesteryear. In Lama, you can take the heritage trail to visit this wonderful village in the spring.
Giussani, the mountainous Balagne
Nature lovers will fall in love with this part of the Balagne. The Giussani is composed of four villages: Mausoleum, Olmi Capella, Pioggiola and Vallica, located 900m above sea level at the heart of Corsica’s regional natural park. Just 45 minutes’ drive from Ile-Rousse, you enter a real haven of peace here.
In this spring season, the Giussani is crossed by many trails and gives visitors a chance to explore the fully blooming maquis on beautiful hikes, surrounded by verdant landscapes with chestnut trees and holm oaks. The local wildlife is protected, including the kite and bearded vulture.
The Forcili Heritage Trail will reveal all the secrets of the Haute Balagne.
Back to the coast: Losari and Ostriconi
The advantage of spring is that you can enjoy the almost deserted beaches for walks, or just to lie down and listen to the calm. Ostriconi beach is a wild but protected beach, and from Losari you can take a guided tour to it (June onwards). More info available from Ile-Rousse tourist office.
The 30 Beautiful Walks guidebook
If you’re sold on this area and all these holiday ideas and you want to find out more, buy the guide to ‘30 Belles Balades’ (30 Beautiful Walks) (price €17.90). With this, all the best excursions in the Balagne are at your fingertips, complemented by a mobile app that supports your adventures without taking up space. Spring is the perfect season for hiking: no oppressive heat, but the temperatures are beautifully mild.
MUST-SEES WITH THE FAMILY
During this season of renewal, when nature awakens and animals come out of hibernation, what better than to visit a botanical garden or an orchard? Here are two must-see places during your stay in Balagne, that will appeal to young and old.
The parc de Saleccia , a classified ‘jardin remarquable’, is located at entrance of Ile-Rousse. There are seven hectares of Corsican and Mediterranean vegetation here, designed by a fabulous landscaper. Enjoy botanical tours, playgrounds for children, farm animals, an aviary and various workshops. Over Easter, an egg hunt is organised too.
The "jardin fruitier d’Avapessa ", comprises three hectares of edible fruits, including rare varieties from around the world. A unique experience for foodies.
It’s easy to see why the Balagne is THE area of Corsica for nature lovers – and you can explore on foot, by bike, by scooter or by car, with the whole family. If you enjoyed this section, read on as we take you to Calvi for the second part of our tour of the Balagne in spring.
